- 1). Remove one of the screws on the lower bowl to allow all of the fuel to drain from the carburetor. There will be a minimal amount of fuel in the bowl, but to avoid a spill, place a fuel catch cup of some type under the bowl.
- 2). Unscrew the bowl from the carburetor body and remove it, along with the plastic floats and needle assembly. Pull out the primary metering block and use a crescent wrench to unscrew the power valve. Note the rating on the power valve. For example, you may see the number "6" written on top of the number "5." This indicates that the power valve opens at 6.5 inches.
- 3). Locate the accelerator pumps on the top of the carburetor and unscrew the two Phillips head screws. Flip the carburetor upside down to eject the two small accelerator needle jets out of the accelerator pump bores. While flipping the carburetor, place your hand over the top of the carburetor to catch the needles as they slide out.
- 4). Remove the eight screws found on the carburetor base plate and remove the base plate from the carburetor body.
- 1). File the top of the metering block to ensure that any metal burrs are removed before reassembling the carburetor. Inspect the remainder of the carburetor body for metal burrs and remove them as necessary.
- 2). Spray the interior of the carburetor body, along with all other metal parts, liberally with carburetor spray cleaner. This will remove the fuel deposits and "gum" that may have collected from normal wear and tear. As you spray, use a toothbrush to scour the components for a deeper cleaning. Spray any moving parts, such as the intake butterfly, while moving them to ensure they operate smoothly.
- 3). Use compressed air to blow the entire carburetor assembly clean. Ensure that all holes and passages receive direct airflow from the compressed air to dislodge any debris. This is the most important part of the cleaning process so be thorough with the compressed air.
- 1). Examine the base gasket that you removed from the carburetor body and locate the correct replacement gasket from the Holley Trick Kit. Place the new base gasket onto the base of the throttle body, ensuring all holes line up properly. You may choose to use the paper gasket or the rubber "non-stick" gasket if you plan to disassemble the carburetor frequently.
- 2). Screw the base of the carburetor onto the carburetor body. Use a dab of Locktite on each screw to ensure they do not back out under vibration. Do not over-tighten these screws.
- 3). Insert the new fuel umbrella check valves, then replace the accelerator pump diaphragm and springs.
- 4). Insert the new needles, needle seats and adjuster screw gasket then re-attach the fuel floats. Essentially, you're re-attaching these parts in the opposite order as you disassembled the carburetor. If you choose to replace the stock brass float with a new synthetic plastic float, make sure that the float level is set. To do this, adjust the float screw so that the float is level with the sight hole at the top of the bowl.
- 5). Attach the new power valve with the crescent wrench. With the power valve re-attached, install the fuel bowl gasket and the fuel bowl reeds then attach the metering block, along with the power valve, to the carburetor body. Attach the fuel bowl to the metering block to complete the carburetor rebuild.
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