- 1). Remove any existing floor covering and level concrete floors with latex leveling compound, if necessary. Cover any wood floor planks with 1/4 marine plywood to level.
- 2). Gather all your equipment at your site. Keep the room warm so the tiles remain pliable. Mark two chalk lines perpendicular to each other and intersecting at the center of the room. The lines should be perpendicular to the walls and not diagonal across the room.
- 3). Lay a row of tiles along each chalk line, holding them tight to one another with painter's tape. Once the center lines are done, fill in each quadrant of the room except for the edges and vertical obstructions such as door jambs and columns.
- 4). Butt a tile against the wall and trim where it starts to overlap the other tiles with a utility knife. You should be left with a tile that fits between the existing floor and the wall. Hold this in place with painter's tape and continue the same process around the edge.
- 5). Use Kraft paper to make templates of the base of each vertical obstruction. Trace the template design onto a tile and then cut it out with a utility knife or shears. Place the shaped tile in the floor pattern. You should now have your entire floor laid out.
- 6). Start at a corner of the room farthest from the exit and lift about 10 tiles. Spread adhesive on the sub-floor with a notched trowel and replace the tiles. The adhesive can cause bumps and rises, so check for level as you proceed across the room. Tiles in tight spaces may be easier to install by applying the adhesive directly onto the tile rather than the sub-floor. Continue until the whole floor is complete. If adhesive squeezes through the seams, wipe it up with a damp cloth as you proceed.
- 7). Use the linoleum roller to press the floor down and remove air bubbles. Clean up any adhesive that seeps through the seams. Let the floor sit overnight to cure.
- 8). Caulk the gaps between the floor and the wall and at the base of any fixtures.
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