- 1). Prepare the planting area for the garlic in late fall before the ground freezes so it is immediately ready for planting early next spring. Dig the garden soil to a depth of 12 inches, overturning it with the shovel and breaking up any clumps.
- 2). Incorporate organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure into the soil with the shovel. Organic matter improved the soil fertility and improves soil texture and its ability to drain water. Pulverize any clumps as you mix the soil and organic matter.
- 3). Grade the planting site's soil with a stiff-tine rake, creating a mounded berm of soil in the shape of a row. Ideally, according to the Gourmet Garlic Garden website, the berm should be at least 6-inches tall. Keep in mind that over the winter, a 6 inch berm will naturally settle, so feel free to mound the berm higher when you first make it. Add more compost to help form the berm if necessary. This berm is what the garlic will be planted in, ensuring excellent drainage.
- 4). Create a planting furrow atop the soil berm with a garden hoe in early spring as soon as the soil is workable (the frost has left the ground). The furrow needs to be about 1 to 2 inches deep so that when a clove is placed in the furrow its top is 1/2 inch to 1 inch below the soil surface.
- 5). Break apart fresh garlic bulbs into their cloves at the planting site when you're ready to plant. Choose only the larger, firm cloves from the bulbs, as the tiny or shriveled cloves will either not germinate or grow large enough over th summer to produce a nice sized bulb for harvest. According to Ohio State University Extension Service horticulturists, the firm smooth cloves around the outer part of the garlic bulb are the best to use.
- 6). Place a garlic clove, pointed tip up, into the planting furrow, spacing them 6 to 8 inches apart.
- 7). Gently cover the planted cloves with soil, making sure the cloves do not tip horizontally. Cover cloves so they are no deeper than 1/2 inch to 1 inch of soil.