Constructing the Turbine

• 1). Saw the two plastic drums in half vertically using the reciprocating saw. Place a three-inch diameter PVC pipe fitting at the outer perimeter of one of the drums. Slide the opposing end of another half underneath the pipe fitting, using a vice clamp to secure it while you trace where you will cut the barrels to accommodate the pipe fitting. The two barrels should resemble a circle that has been bisected down the middle, with one half having been repositioned towards the other's end.
  
  
• 2). Cut the barrels to accommodate the pipe fittings, which should be attached to the drums with screws. A pipe fitting should go at the top and bottom of each barrel, which, once joined by the pipe fitting, will make the blades for your turbine. You may need to drill holes to securely attach the pipe fitting to the barrels. The screws will vary in size, depending on the type of pipe fitting you use and the bore of the holes you drill.
  
  
• 3). Fasten each lazy-Susan-style ball-bearing unit to one of the 7 1/2-inch square boards using wood screws. Attach a pipe fitting to the other two 7 1/2-inch square boards, then screw the two pieces together so the ball-bearing unit allows the pipe fitting to spin freely. These two pieces will comprise the top and bottom of your turbine. Before proceeding, move these two pieces and the barrels to the outdoor location where you'll mount the turbine.
  
  
• 4). Jigsaw your gears from the cutting boards. You can cheaply re-mill the gears to change the ratios between the turbine and the generator. One gear should be 11 inches in diameter, the other should be 6 inches. Before you cut them, draw an outline of each gear on each cutting board and ensure that the teeth on each gear will lock together. Be sure to bore screw holes into each gear--the 11-inch gear should line up with the pipe fitting and the 6-inch gear should line up with the permanent magnet generator.
  
  
• 5). Assemble the turbine at your sturdy outdoor structure. First, screw the ball-bearing units to the top and bottom of the structure. You may need to construct a stand or other supports if an existing structure is not available. Slide each of the barrels onto your length of PVC pipe. The two barrels should be perpendicular to each other--you may need to screw them in place. The length of the pipe varies depending on the height of your support structure, but it should not be terribly bigger than the size of the two barrels stacked on top of each other. Before attaching the PVC pipe (now your turbine's axel) to the bottom mount, screw the 11-inch gear to the side of your ball-bearing unit opposite the turbine.
  
  

Attaching the Generator, Building the Housing and Generating Voltage

• 1). Build a wooden case for your generator out of sturdy planks and plywood--the actual size and shape of the housing will vary depending on the structure housing your turbine and the surrounding area. The generator's case should be in close proximity to the turbine and should allow room for the generator to attach to the turbine and for the generator wires--which will be carrying electricity--to exit the case. However you design the casing, it should be sturdy and stable enough to hold the generator steady when the turbine is spinning.
  
  
• 2). Attach the two gears at the teeth, ensuring that they mesh together and turn freely. The gears should be perpendicular. Once these gears are in place and are operational, finalize any outstanding facets of the generator housing and run wires away from the generator housing.
  
  
• 3). Gauge the amount of electricity your new wind turbine is generating by attaching the wires to a voltmeter. The turbine should be able to produce up to 12 volts of electricity with a constant breeze.