At the time of the evening at 5'O clock our train in which it is impossible to resist the street vendors, in cars or windows, selling tea and snacks without interruption, we arrive at Haridwar, the "Gateway of Hari," an avatar of Vishnu and Vishnu is a Hindu God. The sanctity of this town comes from the Hindu cosmological myth of the Churning of the Sea of??Milk: a bloody battle between the gods and demons to seize the nectar of immortality, Amrita. With the help of Vishnu, the gods are able to recover the brew hands demonic but blurt 4 drops that fall on Allahabad, Nasik, Ujjain and Haridwar.

Thus, in turn, these cities host every 12 years the largest religious festival in the world, Khumbamela. The rest of the year, this holy city receives thousands of pilgrims who came on pilgrimage to the sources of the Ganges, giving the city an atmosphere of holiness rather special. At dawn and dusk, hundreds and hundreds of Hindus go on the ghats (stone stairs along the banks of the Ganges, real living in the holy cities) for the two most important puja of the day.

The morning puja seems to be devoted to purifying bath in the Ganges, a sacred river of 7 in India with the Yamuna, Saraswati (a mythical river that may have existed in ancient times), Indus, Godavari the Narmada and Cauvery. The Ganges, Ganga in Sanskrit, is a major element of Hindu spirituality: he washes his sins the believer who bathes and dispersal of cremated remains in its waters ensures a better rebirth and can even, if done Varanasi, for example, achieve the much desired moksha, liberation from reincarnation to which we are all doomed.

The atmosphere is involved. The crowds on the ghats is impressive, to believe that no inhabitant of Haridwar would not miss the ceremony. The colors of dawn reflected beautifully colored saris and pink and ocher temples, built along the ghats, as outgoing triumphantly sacred waters. I walk along the ghats, my eyes wandering from one family to the other, wondering what Pujari (officiating) think the strongest to his favorite deity. I continue my walk, carried by the mystical voice of reciter of mantras (sacred prayer) echoing through the speakers of the city and let me wear amid devotees. The ritual consists of immersing the body in water and rise to the surface several times to purify his body and mind. The bravest are a swim, taking care aware, somewhat strong in Haridwar. Swimming quickly takes playgrounds and often turns into water fight. For younger children, the initiatory bath does not unanimously, by flowing tears of incomprehension on little cheeks cooled.

The offerings are also an important passage: one buys at one of the many vendors present on the banks, cups or flower necklaces, incense or even food that is offered to the gods dropping in the holy waters. The ritual offerings is the basis of the Hindu religion. It is a way of thanking the gods and ensure their grace. Like the bathroom, these rituals are a way for the believer to communicate with the divine world. No Hindu can not depart from the rule of the puja, confirming that Hinduism is truly a orthopraxis. The deed is everything.

And morning prayer ends, the ghats are empty but are occupied by the saints and the most pious who will spend the day at the waters of the sacred river. At twilight, the small world back for the evening puja, followed by fire ceremony, called Arti, also very important. During the ceremony, trays of fire was lit on lesquel locks of camphor, are required by the Brahmins (Hindu priests). The faithful are heading to different plateaus, touch the fire and then carry their hands to their foreheads. ARTI is a way to show his respect to the gods and get their blessing.

I take my shoes off and go back to the set in the city that revives gradually. The significance of puja cleared, although many things still elude me. Hinduism is a very free religion in practice. It is very difficult for an outsider to grasp the meaning and logic of all the rituals and gatherings he observes, simply because the ceremonial puja such changes from one to another officiant, sowing a little more novice!