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Safety Rules in Rock Climbing

    The Basics

    • If there is one cardinal rule in rock climbing, it is to never let go of the rope with the brake hand while belaying or rappelling. Practice belay technique until it is second nature. If a climber were to let go of the rope with the brake hand and the other climber fell, he would most likely not be able to get control back of the rope and his partner could suffer severe injury.

    Inspect Your Gear

    • In addition to using proper gear such as a helmet, a climber should inspect his gear periodically and replace it as it wears out. If you drop a piece of gear on a climb and get it back at the base of the route, don't reuse it. Ropes wear out over time and should be replaced every five years or so, as should slings and webbing. If you take a long fall on a rope and piece of protection, retire the rope and replace the sling that caught the fall. Check the cables on pieces of protection to make sure they aren't frayed. Climbing protection equipment is only useful if it is in good shape.

    Be Aware

    • Be aware of what is going on around you while you climb. Hazards might lurk overhead that you can't see, such as loose rocks or climbers dropping gear. If the approach to your climb takes you underneath other climbers, consider putting on your helmet. If you hear rocks falling or a climber above shouts "Rock," do not look up or down. Pay attention to the weather; if you see a storm approaching, go down.

    Descents

    • Many accidents happen on the descent, when climbers are tired and might not be thinking clearly. Take extra care when setting up rappels on climbs; climbers have been known to rappel off the ends of their ropes. If the descent is on tricky terrain that is exposed, consider roping up or rappelling over the difficulties.

    Create Routines

    • Safe climbing involves constantly checking your actions, and your physical and mental alertness levels. Setting up routines can help avoid careless accidents. For instance, make sure you check your harness before you start up a climb to ensure the belt loop is doubled back. Before belaying someone or rappelling, check to make sure your carabiner is locked. Always check your knots before starting up a route.

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