Tools

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  In addition to needle and thread, and a sewing machine, seamstress tools include the following: A cutting board is a length of heavy cardboard on which to lay the fabric for cutting. It is usually marked with regular lines to help lay the fabric straight. A seam ripper is a forked cutting edge on the end of a handle. It is used to remove stitching. Tailor's chalk is used to mark the fabric before sewing. It is designed to wash out.
  
  

Types of Fabrics

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  Fabrics are either woven or knit. Woven fabrics hold their shape and can be made from a cotton blend, wool or a synthetic. Knit fabrics are stretchy and are usually made from cotton. Some fabrics, such as corduroy and velvet, have a nap, which means the fibers lie in one direction. Underlining is a lightweight fabric attached underneath light fabrics, such as silk organza or sheer cotton. Interfacing is a stiff fabric designed to reinforce collars and cuffs.
  
  

Understanding Fabrics

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  Dress fabrics are generally sold in widths of 45 or 60 inches. Selvage refers to the edges that have been finished during the weaving. The grain of the fabric is the direction of the weave that is parallel to the selvage. Bias is a 45-degree angle across the length and width of the fabric. If the fabric is washable, it is recommended to wash it before cutting, in order to preshrink it.
  
  

Construction

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  A seam is the joining of two fabrics by sewing a row of stitches along the edge. The seam allowance is the amount of fabric that extends beyond the seam to the edge. A dart is a tuck that begins with a wide seam allowance, but ends in a point. It is used to add fullness to a garment. When a seam follows a curve, the seam allowance is clipped to allow movement in the seam.
  
  

Types of Stitches

• Basting is a loose seam used to hold two pieces together temporarily. Tacking is attaching two pieces by putting a couple of stitches into the same spot by hand. Slip stitching is a form of hand stitching in which the seam is tacked to the garment by a row of stitches. Gathering is sewing two rows of loose stitches and then pulling the threads to create fullness.
  
  

Design

• Pleatspleats image by Adrian Hillman from Fotolia.com
  
  The bodice is the upper part of a dress, from the waist to the neckline. A raglan sleeve is one that extends to the neckline instead of being sewn into the bodice at the shoulder. A pleat is a fold in the fabric. A ruffle is a piece of fabric that is finished on one end and gathered on the other. Piping is a piece of fabric wrapped around a cord that is sewn into a seam for decoration.