- 1). Punch holes into the lawn about 3 inches deep, and around 5 inches apart, using the pitch fork; this will aerate the soil. This can be done once a month to the entire lawn to help reverse the effects of compacting that occurs from the everyday use of a lawn.
- 2). Dig water crystals into the lawn---this can be done at the same time as you aerate the soil, so that the water crystals go deep into the soil. According to Green Air Gardening, green lawns need water to reach deeper roots, and water crystals can provide these roots with moisture, as well as cutting back the need to water as often.
- 3). Water the lawn once a week, 1 inch deep. To measure how deep you are watering, place the tin cans around the lawn and turn on the lawn sprinklers---when there is 1 inch of water in the cans, switch off the sprinklers. This will allow for the water to soak deep into the roots, and help the roots to grow further down. Watering for a few minutes every day will not be effective as watering 1 inch every week. Water in the early morning for the best results.
- 4). Cut the grass about every 10 days with a lawnmower, making sure not to cut more than one-third of the blade off, as this will cause the plant stress and reduce greenness. According to Organic Lawn Care Tips, Kentucky bluegrass, rye and fescue should be cut to between 1.5 inches to 2.5 inches; buffalo grass between 2 to 3 inches and Bermuda at one-half to 1 inch. Grass clippings can be left on the lawn for increased fertilization, mulching and water retention.
- 5). Fertilize the grass in fall with kelp fertilizer or other natural fertilizers. Natural fertilizers provide readily absorbable nutrients, and for a lawn where children and pets play, worrying about chemicals in the lawn will not be an issue. Fertilizing in the fall allows the grass a few months to absorb the nutrients before the growing season---if you fertilize in spring, then the lawn will go into 'overdrive', and you will be fighting a long lawn all season.
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