In Australia, July is the month that most roses are pruned although there are some exceptions to the rule.
Some of the roses that have a single mass flowering in the spring months will have to wait a while.
This group includes some of the old-fashioned roses and a number of 'weeping' standards that should be pruned after flowering.
Most climbing roses should also be left until after they have bloomed.
In colder areas you may be better off waiting and pruning roses only when certain that new shoots will not be damaged by frost.
The subject of pruning roses causes angst for even the most experienced of gardeners.
In reality though, it's actually not all that difficult to get right.
Even if you forgot to prune at all your roses would survive, consider that in the wild roses are never pruned.
They do however respond very well to pruning.
Roses always flower best on new growth that the pruning process stimulates.
After a good pruning your roses also have a neat and tidy appearance, which better suits some garden styles.
So what are you going to need to successfully prune your roses? These are the ingredients and tools to gather before you begin:

• Because of the thorns (worse on some varieties than others) a quality pair of gloves is essential.
  
• A pair of secateurs - clean and sharp.
  
• A narrow blade saw that has a slight curve to allow for manoeuvring through the crowded interior of the rose bush.
  
• Lime-sulphur for cleaning up in the final phase of pruning.
  

Begin the process by cutting out any spindly, or dead stems that are criss-crossing each other.
If you are pruning an established bush spend a moment assessing the growth and cut out some of the older growth.
These are the dark-brown stems and must be cut off clean at the base.
Cut the remaining stems to a few buds above where last years growth finished.
The upper most bud remaining after pruning should be facing outwards from the centre of the plant.
New growth will forge from this bud so it is critical that it heads in the right direction.
At this stage it's time to take a step back and carefully assess the plant.
Ask yourself the following questions:

• Does the remaining growth look healthy and vigorous?
• Is the centre of the rose open so that sun and air can get in easily?

Make any further cuts you think are required including any tidying up of the shape.
Now there are just two more things to do to complete the job.
First you must spray the entire rose and the soil beneath the bush with the lime-sulphur.
This will eliminate any rose scale from the stems and kill off any fungal spores that are laying dormant in the soil.
The final task is to add a healthy layer of organic mulch over the entire root area.
Ensure you avoid making contact with the rose trunk in the process.
In cooler climates don't fertilise at this time, the plant is still dormant and won't require feeding for several more weeks.
If you are in a warmer climate apply a small amount of fertiliser prior to applying the mulch.
In colder climates you will wait to fertilise after the final frosts.
Perhaps you have something to add about rose pruning.
Let us know your thoughts in the comments section below.
Happy gardening!