- 1). Apply wood stain with a soft cloth on a small area at a time. Wipe on the stain. Then wipe off excess with a clean, dry cloth. Allow the stain to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. (If you do not wish to stain your wood surface and want a natural wood finish, this step can be omitted and you can proceed directly to Step 2.)
- 2). Distress the surface. Use sandpaper to round off the corners and edges of the piece. Use the point of a knife or other pointed object to poke small holes in the surface to masquerade as fake "worm holes." Further mar the surface by slapping a metal chain against it. Sand down the areas around knobs and drawer pulls to mimic years of opening and closing. The idea is to "fake" decades of normal wear and tear by purposely marring the surface of the piece.
- 3). Apply antiquing gel. Either brush on or apply with a soft cloth. This will darken either new bare wood, stained wood, or painted wood and give it the appearance of age. If you want a lighter antique color, dilute the antiquing gel with a little water. Work on a small area of the piece at a time. Following manufacturer's instructions, apply the gel. Then wipe it off excess with a soft cloth. Allow it to dry.
- 4). Sand lightly. Using fine grade sandpaper, lightly sand the surface to remove any imperfections or bumps from the stain and/or antiquing gel.
- 5). Remove sanding residue. Use a "tack cloth" to completely remove all sanding dust. Tack cloth is a cloth impregnated with an adhesive that grabs sanding dust when you wipe the cloth over the surface of the wood.
- 6). Apply protective finish. Use varnish or polyurethane and apply with a brush following manufacturer's instructions. Let it dry overnight.
- 7). Do finish sanding. Use extra fine grade sandpaper and lightly sand the wood finish and smooth out any surface bumps.
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